Here’s a small piece I wrote for a website, but never got published. I hope it is of some use.
Istanbul is one of those cities for which there are simply not enough meals in the day. Such is the quality and diversity of the food on offer that you will have to invent a few of your own to squeeze in between the standards. While the culinary offerings are certainly an appealing draw, the palpable sense of history and diverse array of cultural heritage adds to the allure and the city is home to a multitude of historically significant sites alongside the numerous kahvehans and kebapçıs and lends itself kindly to aimless meandering.
Canım Ciğerim
This longstanding restaurant specialises in skewers, with the lamb’s liver option being of particular renown. Grilled and served simply with slender sheets of lavash, a selection of herbs, thinly sliced onions sprinkled with sumac and the ubiquitous chopped salad esme. Wrap as you wish and wash down with a copper mug of ayran.
Dönerci Engin’in Yeri
For many, the döner kebab holds connotations of late night food desperation but in this city they are invariably prepared with an additional degree of love. This slip of a joint came highly recommended by a local friend and apparently has the endorsement of one of Turkey’s most revered food critics. Succulent, seasoned meat is sliced from spit and served in bread with a little tomato, onion and parsley.
Bereketzade Mahallesi, Okçu Musa Cd. 2, Beyoğlu
Ulaş Baharat
While the huge markets have extensive spice selections, a trip to this carefully curated shop will likely provide you with a fresher range and more personalised service. Little English is spoken but the staff are happy to offer guidance where required. Pick your pastes and spices and have them vacuum packed for easy transportation. Grab a beer in one of the nearby bars afterwards and watch the flamboyant fishmongers shouting and slinging their wares.
Güneşli Bahçe Sokak 18, Kadıköy
Karaköy/ Galata
Given its scale, Istanbul can be a little daunting when deciding upon a base. I got lucky with a random apartment choice close to Galata Tower. The main arteries in the surrounding area can get a little busy, but it’s easy to escape the crowds by slipping along one of the many side streets. It is also a short stroll down to the ferries that will transport you along the Bosphorus.
The Tower Pub
The Tower Pub successfully showcases the simple trifecta for pub success: exceptionally friendly staff, cold beer and an eclectic soundtrack (liberally peppered with Prog Rock on my visits). As an added bonus it has a dartboard and seems to stay open well into the night.
Tarihi Karaköy Balık Lokantası
Hidden away amongst a clutch of hardware shops, this hole in the wall seafood specialist is not easy to find but well worth the hunt. You will be offered a bowl of a fine fish soup to start which you should most definitely accept. The clipped menu offers a small selection of fresh fish, including exceptional sea bass baked in parchment paper and grilled carefully over the coals.
Arap Cami Mahallesi, Tersane Caddesi & Kardeşim Sokak Grifin Han D:45/A
Beyoğlu
Lades 2
If you happen to wake in a rakı induced fug, this old school canteen holds the key to getting you back on track. They specialise in menemen, best described as Turkish scrambled eggs, cooked with onions, peppers and tomatoes. Ask for a side of cheese and olives and some honey-drizzled kaymak (clotted cream), wash down with plenty of black tea and you will be set to face the day.
Katip Çelebi Mahallesi, İstiklal Caddesi, Sadri Alışık Sokak, 11, Beyoğlu
Erylimaz Pide Salonu
Do I really need to explain the lure of a place serving piping hot pide 24 hours a day? Essentially a Turkish pizza, the dough is rolled to order, best topped with meat and cheese and should be garnished with plenty of the pickled green chillies found at your table.
Yüksek Kaldırım Caddesi, 2 Bereketzade, Beyoğlu
Privato Cafe
Cloistered away along a quiet cobbled side street, this cute cafe serves an excellent rendition of the traditional Turkish breakfast spread - an ample succession of small plates including local cheeses, homemade preserves and much more that is abundant enough to share.
Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı
I was initially a little reticent about my induction into the hamam experience, but I had no need for concern. Though recently and thoughtfully renovated, the original building, constructed over 500 years ago, retains an ancient charm alongside the airy architecture. The potentially daunting process is easily navigated by the uninitiated thanks to the gentle guidance of the staff.