Hang Ten - The Surf Thread

@Gavin posted this wicked video below and was saying there’s no surf thread… I love a surf video so here we are…

“Talking of Stacy and seeing as we don’t have a surf thread.” :v:

In addition to Gavin’s post I watched this recently and it was superb…

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Some of the stuff these people do is absolutely incredibly. Its never ceased to amaze. I’m a very low level old grommet, or was, not been for a few years now and fear I’m too old to get back what limited skills I manage to acquire.

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I haven’t made it yet in winter when it goes off, but the biggest waves in the world are at Nazare, Portugal. Mind blowing - surfing lunatics only need apply.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJc4Ir78KdE

There’s a whole series on this on Sky about how it all happened there. It’s brilliant.

Whats that called? Would like to watch.

I think it was called The 100ft Wave.

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Cool, thanks man.

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Competitive surfing isn’t really my thing, but this heat at Pipeline on the North Shore was mental in the extreme. So heavy I can’t even fathom how they do it. The wave breaks yards from the beach onto the the gnarliest reef. Mindboggling.

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My fave spot, when i surfed a fair bit in the 80’s and early 90’s, was Lagundri Bay, Nias, a 12 hour boat journey off the west coat of Sumatra. I guess its pretty popular now, but when i first went in '91, there was only a handful of Western surfers. We got stuck there for a couple of weeks as the ‘ferry’ (a rickety wooden fishing vessel, crewed by a load if drunk 12 year olds), sank whilst we were out there. You would rent a board from a local for a week, surf, put it in your beach hut, then the local kids would nick it back, so youd have to rent it again. Proper little racket they had going on :rofl:. There really was nothing to do but surf and drink Indo whisky, in 40⁰ heat.

Not my video (we lost a load of film somewhere in Malaysia), but this gives you a flavour of what the island was like back then.

Nothing compared to these nutters though

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Watched this tonight on TV, hopefully get a link soon.

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I never surfed but I grew up around the culture. It was everywhere in Australia in the 70’s and 80’s. As a kid, we lived across the road from Jones’s Beach in Kiama, a coastal town with a big surfing vibe. The vacant lot across from our house that lead down to the beach was always littered with Sandman panel vans with softcore erotica, Beastmaster style imagery and trippy ocean/aquatic scenes all beautifully painted and airbrushed on the sides. I saw my first bong lying discarded near the surfclub , a classic Orchy juice bottle with some pilfered garden hose as the stem. I was too young to know exactly what it was, but I knew it was for naughty behaviour. The girls in their bikinis would sit and watch heir fellas out surfing and they all seemed so cool and untouchable.

I still love the Morning Of The Earth style hippy surf ethos, the music that came with it always makes me feel nostalgic for my youth.

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Taking the kids here next Friday.

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